Home Centella Asiatica Biological activities of Centella’s Heterosides

Biological activities of Centella’s Heterosides

by Charaf Akaaboune

Heterosides of Centella Asiatica is a highly purified extract, titrated in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside. It is an easy-to-formulate powder : water-soluble; this active ingredient does not add colour to formulas and is heat and oxidation stability.

Heterosides of Centella Asiatica are widely recognized for their anti-inflammatory properties and their protective and stimulating action on dermal components.

To fight against dry skin, it is essential to fully protect the epidermis against the external aggressions to which it is subject daily. And, above all, it is vital to maintain its integrity and primary resources. H2O is an essential resource due to its role in all of our body's functions: H2O represents nearly 75% of our total weight.

In the skin, H2O content (~75% in the dermis) diminishes during the keratinization process (basal layer of keratinocytes ~ 32%; horny layer ~13%). The prevention of cutaneous dryness is traditionally focused on moisturizing the epidermis and replenishing the essential nutrients it lacks.

Based on a lipidomic approach, ceramides represent nearly 50% of the lipids in the stratum corneum. Ceramides play different roles based on a functional approach, particularly that of the physical barrier through water retention thanks to the classic "brick-and-mortar" organizational structure (corneocytes/ceramides). There is also a link between the level of ceramides and/or their composition in specific cutaneous dysfunctions (dry skin, psoriasis, atopic skin, sensitive skin).

Hence, the stimulation of ceramides positively affects the formation of the stratum corneum and the keratinization process.

Additional information on this active ingredient's effects in terms of its positive influence on the skin barrier:

All of this data has paved the way to new applications for this active ingredient concerning epidermal H2O management to maintain epidermal homeostasis.

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